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conditions with harvest that usually takes place in mid-October. A single vineyard (3000 vines per hectare) is dedicated to the passito style Cesanese wine, which is produced by leaving grapes hanging on the vines till the first fortnight of December. Overall Migrante's grapes are considered, even by local competitors, super healthy and benchmark of how this difficult variety should be cultivated. Not only great attention is paid to vineyards, but the real goal is to achieve the perfect phenolic ripeness; Lorenzo tells us that he starts the harvest only if, besides the obvious sugar levels wanted, the grape seed loses astringency and together with the peel comes off the pulp without difficulty. This is an empirical maturation signal indicating that the desired aromatic development is achieved. "A DARK CESANESE? REALLY? GET OUT OF HERE!": When Lorenzo showed us his vineyards he seems pretty relaxed and satisfied with the work done: "It's a lot of work because I am obsessed with health vines and green harvest and at the moment prefer to keep production levels pretty under control. 18 thousand bottles per year is a good number already and there is no need to increase it without a strategic thinking. Let's see what comes next, I am not in a hurry and so are my vineyards!" Lorenzo's style of Cesanese doesn't like any kind of make up: "When you see a dark, impenetrable Cesanese... well it means that has been adjusted. Cesanese can not be a super dark wine at sight and some producers benefit from the possibility to blend it with another grape variety (up to 15%, no more). All this is allowed by the appellation body of rules, but I just don't like it. My Cesanese is pure and, most of the times, on the pale side." Is it really something to be ashamed of? Often some producers heavily adopt techniques such as extended skin contact or "bleeding off" to try to extract more color and density, but Migrante wines will never be deep reds as these Cesanese. Sometimes even extreme altitude (more than 600 meters above the sea level) is a problem: the higher are the vineyards, the more chances are that the wine will reach 16% AbV due to natural sugar concentration in the most. "We use cultured neutral yeasts for the simple reason that natural yeast often fails to carry through the alcoholic fermentation, being Cesanese variety on a very rich sugar level. In this case it would leave a residual sugar, not desirable for the type of wine I want to have. Nevertheless we skip any kind of pathetic aromatic yeasts to avoid a possible wine distortion...". CHEMISTRY OR ... PEAS? Guess what ...: No chemicals, no herbicides, nothing at all. Migrante cultivation style could be described as ancestral: Just sulphur and copper in the vineyards and the help of crows which scare other birds and, at the same time, are renown for disliking eating grapes. It couldn't been better ... When asked about biodynamic systems, Lorenzo is more than explicit: "No, I am not interested in any kind of official certification of my work. I only know that my family lives around the vineyards, I have three sons and one day this will be their property. Who likes chemistry just around the corner where he is living? Come on, man..." The varied nature of soils (loamy, clayey and calcareous), partly resulting from volcanic formations, combined with a climate characterized by persistent temperature changes, make this area particularly suitable for viticulture and the production of a wine with a strong personality.

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